How many days in San Pedro de Atacama, and in what order

The tours around San Pedro climb in steps. The Valley of the Moon lies above 2,500 m, Piedras Rojas above 4,000 meters, and both the Tatio geysers and the Miscanti and Miniques lagoons at about 4,300 meters.^4,10,7,11 Climbing that ladder in order follows Chile Travel's advice, and constant drinking of water is its other defence against puna, as altitude sickness is called here.¹²

Chile Travel gives the practical advice: drink water constantly against puna, avoid alcohol on the first night, and adjust the pace of activities to the altitude.^12,13 Operators echo it. The geyser tour with breakfast recommends lower-altitude tours first, and the Cerro Toco ascent asks for at least 2 to 3 nights in San Pedro and a high tour such as the geysers before the climb.

There are age limits up high, too. The park at the geysers does not admit children under 9, and the 10-hour lagoons tour advises against bringing children younger than 7 or adults past 70, given its altitude of 4,100 meters. Families should plan the low trips first and check each listing before booking, since an age rule printed in the small print is easy to miss until the morning of the tour.

The volcano near San Pedro de Atacama that everyone photographs is Licancabur, the snow-tipped cone that, in the words of Chile Travel, can be seen from anywhere in the town.²² From the Valley of the Moon it stands on the eastern skyline, and at sunset the last light paints the mountains in violet, red and gold.²³

Climbing is a separate project. Chile Travel names Cerro Toco as the volcano for beginners and Lascar for the experienced, and says both need preparation.²⁴ A guided Cerro Toco ascent of 7 hours for up to 6 people starts from $110. A Lascar summit day of 12 to 14 hours, private, reaches 5590 meters above sea level in good weather, from $250.

None of these climbs belongs at the start of a trip. The Cerro Toco operator asks for 2 to 3 nights in San Pedro and a high-altitude tour first. If a summit tempts you, plan a longer stay, with the valley and the lagoons early and the climb near the end, when your body has had time to adjust and the guide can judge how you cope with the thin air.